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A Detailed Guide to German Army Trainers (GATs)

10 min

The best elevated casual footwear you've probably never heard about.

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The German Army Trainers (GATs for short) are exciting sneakers in fashion. If I could own one pair of sneakers to complement any neutral-colored outfit for the rest of my life, it would be a pair of tried-and-true GATs.

In this guide, I'll cover the history of this unique footwear, share the best options for your money, and even provide fourteen ways to style them all year round.

To learn why I think neutral colors are the best option for men to build a wardrobe with, read my article here or watch the following YouTube video.

The Original GAT Sneakers (BW Sport Trainers)

The rich history of this sneaker variant dates back to Germany during the Cold War era. Around the 1980s, the West German Military submitted a contract to build a standard-issue sneaker for military fitness training for their soldiers.

The original GAT sneakers the West German Army wore were the Bundeswehr Sportschuhe (BW Sport for short), which translates to "federal defense sports shoe." Although they may be challenging to find, these pairs have been known to be floating around in various online stores.

After the collapse of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the subsequent ending of the Cold War, which led to the downsizing of the German Army from its initial strength of about 500,000 personnel, these sneakers were then sold off to army surplus outlets and beyond by their original wearers due to excess.

What Are German Army Trainers?

Maison Margiela Replicas

Iconic Grey Suede Detailing

The definitive look of a classic GAT consists of a white leather upper with gray suede paneling stitched around the side up through the toe box of the shoe. The laces are white or off-white, and the outsole is a classic gum sole.

You'll typically find many Europeans wearing this type of sneaker, but as their popularity has increased, I have noticed more people wearing them in America.

Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory

The original company that crafted the famous GATs is up for debate, as Adidas and Puma reportedly produced the first model. Even today, you can find variations of GATs from both companies, but they aren't easy to find as the original models are no longer available for general retail.

Interestingly enough, the two brothers Adi and Rudolph Dassler, who are known to have created the GAT shoes, split up after the Cold War ended and started their own shoe companies. Adi began Adidas, and Rudolph went on to start Puma.

Given the sleek and timeless design of the GAT sneakers, it's no wonder each brother wanted to assume ownership of the iconic silhouette. Regardless of who deserves the majority of the credit, years later, the world would be met with what is now considered the quintessential GAT sneaker.

Maison Margiela Replica Sneakers

Hail to the King

It wasn't until the spring of 1999 that Maison Margiela Paris, pioneered by Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela, showcased the iconic and functional sneakers in its spring/summer Artisanal presentation. Soon after, in the mid-2000s, Maison Margiela Paris recrafted the original sneaker with a luxurious facelift, adding premium materials.

Thus, the stylish icon now known as the Maison Margiela Replicas was born. Consider these as the equivalent of the Common Projects Achilles white sneakers and an elevated tribute to the original BW Sport sneakers.

Speaking of white sneakers, check out my guide here for thirteen ways to style them all year round.

The Maison Margiela Replicas are currently the gold standard for GATs. Unfortunately, much like the Common Projects, they aren't direct-to-consumer and are priced at a premium, typically over $500.

Other Colors & Designs

I love the classic white leather, grey suede, and gum soles of the original German Army Trainers; however, if you're bored by the neutral-colored scheme of the originals and find yourself to be more of a rebellious "fashionista," then you'll be happy to know that the Maison Margiela Replica sneakers come in a variety of eccentric colorways and designs.

Perhaps the zaniest design is that of a paint-splattered Margiela GAT, which is just as comfortable and well-built as any other color the iconic brand offers. Regardless of your preference, there is something here for everyone.

Margiela German Army Trainer Alternatives

Suppose you're interested in snagging a pair of quality GATs in various colorways and materials but want to steer clear of that hefty luxury tax. In that case, I recommend Beckett Simonon (another version of the GAT) as this brand does well to retain the iconic style.

Source: Unsplash

Beckett Simonon shoes are well worth the investment, offering excellent quality and construction. The company’s shoes are comfortable and stylish, provided you're willing to wait a while to receive your order, as they are a made-to-order brand.

"Made-to-order" refers to products being physically constructed after your online submission. This generally results in longer wait periods but helps minimize waste, ensure quality control, and allow for competitive pricing.

For more information about Beckett Simonon, check out our full brand review here.
Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers

Of course, if you're living on a lean budget, don't care about the highest quality of leather or materials, and want a pair of GATs for the best price possible, then check out this brand called PEILEG on Amazon.

Are German Army Trainers For You?

These are my favorite casual sneakers because they are so classic and unique. Their rich history alone is alluring. While they aren't as versatile as a clean pair of white trainers, owning a pair of GATs can do wonders for any man's minimal shoe collection.

If you want an easy but effective way to elevate your casual outfits for spring, summer, and even mild autumn months, try a pair of modern GATs. They are comfortable, well-made shoes that can enhance your wardrobe in some pretty unique ways.

You don't have to go with a pair of Maison Margiela GATs, but I highly recommend sticking with the classic German Army Trainer design with a white leather upper, gum soles, and gray suede paneling through the toe box. These will blend well with any neutral-colored capsule wardrobe you want to build over time.

Read my complete guide to building a neutral-colored capsule wardrobe here.

How to Style GATs All Year Round

I know I have just praised these sneakers a lot, but allow me to show you how stylish they can be virtually all year round!

Here are fourteen outfit ideas featuring a classic pair of GATs.

Look #1: Brilliant Blue & Green

Maison Margiela Replicas

This first look is one of my favorite pairings. Blue and green are analogous colors, meaning they sit next to each other on the color wheel; hence, they work brilliantly together. The rich green and blue look exceptionally dapper when paired with the classic GATs, perfect for breezy spring days.

If you aren't sure what analogous means or want to learn more about color theory, check out my separate guide here for an introductory lesson, or watch the following video.

Look #2: Classic Harrington

Maison Margiela Replicas

The Harrington jacket is an excellent blend of sporty and elegant, making it a perfect option when worn with the GATs. This jacket is often waterproof (or at least water resistant), so zipping it up to shield you from the wind or rain is a great option.

Pay attention to the materials and construction, as not all Harringtons are built for rainy weather.

For more information about the best types of spring jackets for men, read this article here.

Look #3: Blue-On-Blue

Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers

I love a good monochromatic look, and this blue-on-blue ensemble is another perfect layered outfit for spring. Here is another Harrington jacket, this time in navy blue.

The Harrington jacket is named after the fictional character Rodney Harrington from the 1957 film and subsequent 1960s television series called Peyton Place. It would later be popularized by Hollywood juggernauts such as Steve McQueen, Elvis Presley, and James Bond.

If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for you!

For a comprehensive guide on Harrington jackets, refer to my separate post here.

Look #4: Chore Coat & White Pants

Here are some excellent options for events such as Easter. White pants look stunning when balanced with the elegant GATs. Of course, opting for brown, beige, and tan upper garments allows the trainers' gum soles to sing. Pair with an intelligent shirt jacket, and you're ready to celebrate the King.

Read my separate post here for more ways to style white pants all year round.

Look #5: Camp Collar Shirt & Shorts

Maison Margiela Replicas

This relaxed and sporty green and blue outfit features a watch that perfectly complements the classic pair of GATs.

This is another analogous ensemble perfect for summer and staying cool in the warmer months of the year.

Look #6: Polo Shirt & Shorts

Maison Margiela Replicas

Sticking with the same analogous color scheme, here is a slightly more elevated summer option with a complementing fedora and belt. The darker shades of blue and green pop in all the right ways (without being too loud), especially when paired with the trainers.

Look #7: Fourth of July Special

Maison Margiela Replicas

A knit Oxford such as this adds much texture and visual intrigue. I think this breezy summer outfit is great for Independence Day events nationwide. Of course, even if you decide to wear something like this any other day out of the summer months, an elevated pair of trainers will still look great.

Look #8: Chambray & Olive

Maison Margiela Replicas

Blue and green are my "go-to" color combinations, if you haven't noticed. Here are some decidedly lighter shades of green and blue. Chambray is a much lighter and more breathable type of denim that adds lovely texture and visual intrigue to any spring or summer ensemble, similar to the previous look.

Look #9: Linen & White Denim

Maison Margiela Replicas

This is another white pants outfit with a quintessential summer fabric: linen. Green and white look great together, and including the GATs ties this ensemble together nicely.

Look #10: Suede Leather Jacket & Chinos

Maison Margiela Replicas

There are numerous options for leather jackets, but if you ask me, a suede jacket is an excellent choice for the spring and fall. The softer material is an intentional choice that complements more casual pieces.

This ever-stylish outerwear piece looks great in a complementary brown tobacco color paired alongside the classic GATs.

Look #11: Tweed Sport Coat & Olive Chinos

Maison Margiela Replicas

Incorporating timeless pieces, such as a tweed jacket, in a contemporary manner effectively bridges the gap between classic and modern styles.

For this ultra-casual outfit, I'm wearing a plain white t-shirt, olive green chinos, a leather belt, and classic GATs to create a neutral-toned outfit. The GAT sneaker's gum sole pulls in the belt's light brown tone on my waist, adding a degree of visual consistency.

If you're interested in how to style a sport coat then you can check out my separate guide, here.

Look #12: Cozy Street Style

Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers

Here is a cozy, neutral-colored ensemble that interests more fashion-forward men. While this look may not be for everyone, I think it is beautiful proof that a classic pair of GATs can work well in urban areas during the late fall and winter months. Throw on a tasteful scarf, and you're in business!

Read my separate article here to learn more about the best coats for men to wear in the winter.

Look #13: Winter Analogous

Maison Margiela Replicas

It isn't easy to rock a pair of sneakers like these for the late fall and early winter months, but if I were to try my hand at it, I would do it this way.

Of course, the later months of the year call for the darkening of colors in most cases, and this earthier analogous pairing is a great, smart, casual way to stay layered and stylish.

Look #14: Smart Casual Navy Blazer

Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers

In this look, I'm wearing a hopsack navy blazer with a white crewneck t-shirt, classic khaki chinos, and some sporty GATs.

Including the GATs is a tasteful way to stand out due to the pedigree of these sneakers within the fashion world and their luxurious materials.

Hopsack is exceptionally breathable, making it perfect for the spring and summer.

Read my article here for twelve ways to style a classic navy blazer.

My Favorite Sneakers

Hopefully, you learned something new about this unique and stylish sneaker option. While I'll be the first to admit that German Army Trainers aren't as versatile as a clean pair of white minimalist sneakers, this post has proven that they are nearly as interchangeable, especially when paired with other neutral-colored garments.

"I am the good shepherd. The good shepherd lays down his life for the sheep." - John 10:11

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