Introduction to Watch Collecting
Watch collecting is a hobby that demands patience, knowledge, and a fairly elementary understanding of the watch world.
No, you don't need to be an "expert" (despite what many pretentious watch connoisseurs might tell you). You simply need to have a basic understanding of how watches work and the various types of watches available.
Watch collecting can be quite expensive, and depending on the collector's dedication, their costs may vary from those of other watch enthusiasts.
One thing is certain, though, and that is building a watch collection can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it’s essential to start with a solid foundation.
For beginners, it’s essential to focus on affordable watch brands that offer quality and value, which is precisely what this guide is designed for.
Say you're just beginning to explore the world of horology and watch collecting, but you don't want to dive in too deep right away.
This guide aims to equip beginner watch enthusiasts with knowledge about the most reputable watch brands and models they can trust with their hard-earned money, all within a modest budget.
And if you're worried about being judged by seasoned watch collectors, don't be, because the watches I'm going to share will command respect as long as you wear them for the right occasions (you'll see what I mean here in a bit).
If you're looking to start a modest collection on a budget and see where it takes you, then this guide is perfect for you.
But first, a few particulars.
Elements of a Watch Collection
In my opinion, when starting a watch collection, aside from cost and what you can afford, the key qualities of a good collection are versatility and functionality.
This means choosing watches suitable for specific occasions, such as a dress watch for formal or semi-formal events, while also selecting a watch with classic and timeless styles, like a leather strap or a durable rubber strap.
This doesn't mean you should buy a nice watch just for the sake of owning one!
Not everyone needs an IWC Mark, a Rolex Explorer, an Omega Speedmaster, or a similar watch.
Don't get me wrong, pilot watches and diving watches are cool, but if you don't need them and more importantly, don't see yourself EVER wearing them as part of your style, then don't bother.
Other details, like a chronograph function for measuring elapsed time, water resistance, a two-tone color scheme, or a fancy dial, are preferences that I consider less important unless the wearer values them or needs them for practical reasons.
Ultimately, anyone aiming to join the watch community needs to develop a smart plan for expanding their collection before going "all in."
Key Terminology (Watch Movements)
I've written a comprehensive guide on this particular topic, but here's a brief overview.
Movement refers to the assembly of components that exist within a watch, allowing it to tell time. Movement is commonly regarded as the "engine" that powers a timepiece.
Watch movements can be categorized into two main types: mechanical movements and quartz movements, each with its distinct characteristics and advantages.
Quartz Movement
Quartz movement relies on a small battery within the watch that transmits an electrical current to an installed quartz crystal, which vibrates and causes the gears to turn consistently, allowing the wearer to accurately tell the time.
This construction method was first pioneered by Seiko back in 1959 and has since prevailed as the most appealing option for mass-market consumption due to its affordable implementation.
You will find many "fast-fashion" watch brands utilizing some variation of quartz movement for their watches.
Since quartz watches are battery-powered, they must eventually be replaced over time. Luckily, this is relatively easy to manage (in most cases); however, your experience may vary depending on which quartz watch you choose.
Mechanical Movement
Mechanical watches must be physically wound each day. However, some higher-end brands of automatic watches are crafted with sufficient storage efficiency, allowing them to last several days without needing to be wound.
Powering a mechanical watch occurs by turning the crown (depicted below), which tensions the inner mainspring within the case. This mainspring gradually releases tension, providing power to the various networks of gears that enable the watch to maintain accurate timekeeping.
Automatic Movement
Automatic watches are categorized as mechanical because they fundamentally operate in the same way.
What differentiates automatic watches is that they do not require manual winding of the crown to tension the mainspring. Instead, automatic watches contain a weighted watch rotor (depicted above) that utilizes the kinetic energy generated by the wearer's natural wrist movement to tension the mainspring.
This rotor swings freely within the casing, winding the watch "automatically" simply by moving the wrist.
As you can guess, the accuracy of an automatic watch and its ability to keep ticking depend on being worn on the wrist or being rotated by a separate device to prevent it from stopping.
If left dormant for a prolonged period, the watch will resume operation shortly after the rotor begins moving, but you will most likely need to recalibrate it to the correct time of day.
This type of movement is relatively new, having emerged only in the early twentieth century. Most higher-end watch brands will offer both mechanical and automatic movement functionalities; therefore, they tend to be much more expensive than quartz watches.
What About a "One-Watch" Collection?
For some collectors, the goal is to have a single-watch collection where one ideal watch fulfills all their needs.
A one-watch collection can be a challenging but rewarding goal, as it requires finding a watch that is versatile and suitable for daily wear.
The Rolex Submariner or an Omega Speedmaster are classic examples of watches that can be worn in many situations because of their timeless, elegant, studious, and sporty designs.
However, with prices often exceeding $10,000, it is neither practical nor possible for the average person to own one.
Even with more affordable and reputable brands, building a one-watch collection can be limiting, and many collectors prefer to own multiple watches to have more options. After all, in most cases, you wouldn't necessarily want your dress watch to be the same one you wear for working out, and vice versa.
Best Watches for Beginners
For beginners, it’s essential to choose a watch that is affordable, reliable, and easy to maintain.
Brands such as Timex, Casio, Seiko, Citizen, and Hamilton offer a range of watches that are ideal for beginners (as we will soon see).
When selecting a watch, consider style, quality, and price. For beginners, a good watch should feature a clear dial, reliable movement, solid construction, and a comfortable strap.
- A watch for everyday wear.
- A watch for active and gym wear.
- An elevated casual or smart casual watch.
- A fun, interesting, or unique "hipster" watch that perhaps has some practical function or unique heritage behind it.
- A dress watch for formal and semi-formal events.
Watch #1: Timex Weekender (Everyday Wear)
The Timex Weekender may seem basic to some, but make no mistake - this simple quartz watch is a timeless and classic starter watch for any collection.
So much so that any watch connoisseur is likely to acknowledge and even respect that you're beginning your watch-collecting journey on the right footing (unless, of course, they are too pretentious for their own good).
Simply put, if you're looking for a quality quartz watch to begin your collection, in my opinion (and likely in the opinion of many other watch enthusiasts), the Weekender is probably the best option.
As you can see, this casual watch is a straightforward way to look sharp and polished, and you can relax knowing it will serve you well now and in the years to come.
Specs for this include the following:
- Amazon Price: $50
- Diameter: 38mm
- Thickness: 8mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement Type: Quartz
- Crystal: Mineral
Watch #2: Casio G-Shock (Active Wear)
Shifting gears a little, here is the classic Casio G-Shock.
Now, look, I know some of you are rolling your eyes at this one.
Maybe, but this handy watch is the one I wear most often.
I know not every man has the same type of job, but there's something to be said about having a watch that JUST WORKS. You can beat this thing up, toss it around, drop it from small heights, even shower with it, exercise with it, swim with it, and so on.
This watch effectively keeps accurate time and tracks activities.
It has supported me through four years of military school in Vermont's mountainous regions and two sea tours in the Navy, including two deployments—one lasting over 300 days during the peak of the COVID-19 pandemic.
This watch has traveled to many continents and has performed flawlessly every step of the way; in MY book, that means a lot!
Specs include:
- Amazon Price: $75
- Case Size: 42.8mm
- Thickness: 13.4mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48.9mm
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Movement Type: Casio Quartz 3229
- Crystal: Mineral
Watch #3: Citizen Chandler Eco-Drive (Elevated Casual)
This watch has nothing to do with me... it just happens to have a great name by coincidence.
Citizen is a well-known and respected watch brand, and it is also responsible for the technology that powers its Eco-Drive watches.
In essence, this is a quartz watch; however, it is powered by light. It absorbs and stores both natural and artificial light to convert it into usable energy, which powers an internal quartz oscillator that tells the time.
This watch features an elegant, classy design that isn't too flashy. It is perfect for business casual or smart casual outfits and easily matches with a wide variety of neutral color combinations.
Think of this watch as the more refined and classic counterpart to the Timex Weekender. In fact, I think that this would be a great purchase after obtaining the Timex Weekender due to its "no-frills" silhouette.
The Citizen Chandler is a field watch with military-inspired design features. It has a classic leather strap, so it's not a dress watch, but it can easily match any business or smart casual outfit.
Specs include:
- Amazon Price: $165
- Case Size: 37mm
- Thickness: 9mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 45mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Movement Type: Quartz Eco-Drive E101
- Crystal: Mineral
Watch #4: Vostok Amphibia ("Hipster" Watch)
Whether you actually need a dive watch depends on a few factors. Specifically, it matters whether you dive, swim, or scuba dive. Most people choose diving watches for their sporty style, sleek design, water resistance, and interesting history.
I think that dive watches are great to include in any watch collection, but with so many different ones to choose from, it can be difficult to narrow down which ones to opt for.
There are many great dive watches, but I specifically chose the Vostok Amphibia for this list because I believe it is both an excellent dive watch and also serves as a unique and interesting "hipster" watch.
Born in 1967, the Amphibia was created for Soviet Navy frogmen who performed routine diving operations. This is a watch that enthusiasts can't help but ask you about, and true connoisseurs will recognize and respect it for its unique history and excellent build quality.
This watch is automatic, which means its construction is of the highest quality. For the price, you'd be hard-pressed to find another automatic watch that is as well-built as this one.
Whether you dive or not, it's irrelevant; a watch like this is a casual way to look cool wherever you go, all without breaking the bank.
Specs for this include:
- Amazon Price: $130
- Case Size: 41mm
- Thickness: 15mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 49mm
- Lug Width: 18mm
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Movement Type: Auto Vostok 2415
- Crystal: Acrylic
Watch #5: Orient Bambino V2 (Dress Watch)
In my opinion, the Orient Bambino Version 2 offers the best value for your money if you're seeking a stylish and well-crafted dress watch for special occasions that demand higher dress standards.
The Japanese brand Orient has become known for its great quality and affordable prices. This watch holds a special place in my heart because it was the dress watch I wore on my wedding day and the same watch I gifted to my now brother-in-law on the day he married my sister.
I believe this watch is a no-brainer for any man who needs a quality dress watch for those moments when dressing up is important. Weddings, interviews, balls, reunions, and more.
You're receiving an expertly crafted automatic Japanese watch that looks very premium and elegant.
Specs are as follows:
- Amazon Price: $200
- Case Size: 40.5mm
- Thickness: 11.8mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 46.8mm
- Lug Width: 21mm
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Movement Type: Auto Orient F6724
- Crystal: Mineral
Honorable Mention: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
Whether you're into vintage watches, modern watches, or luxury watches, very few brands can strike a perfect balance between top-notch craftsmanship and timeless silhouettes at honest price points better than the heritage powerhouse Hamilton.
With deep roots in American military history, Hamilton has endured since 1892. Although the brand started in the Northeastern United States, it gradually shifted its production to Switzerland in the late 20th century.
Despite the changes in production over the years, Hamilton's design language has endured and remained virtually unchanged. Its minimalistic field watch, designed to support numerous military operations on the battlefield for decades, also translates well to everyday wear due to its simple and functional design.
This brand offers iconic heritage models and is highly recognized throughout the watch community. Simply put, if you add the classic Hamilton Khaki Field mechanical to your collection, you establish yourself as a true watch enthusiast.
This watch also holds a special place in my heart because my wife presented it to me on our wedding day as a gift (though I didn't wear it).
Of course, this watch is by far the most expensive option on this list, which is why I've included it as a bonus.
I don't think you need this watch anytime soon after starting a modest collection, but if you're dedicated to watch collecting right from the start and have the funds to include this in your lineup or even replace it with the previously mentioned Timex Weekender or Citizen Chandler, then I believe you won't be disappointed.
Specs include:
- Amazon Price: $645
- Case Size: 38mm
- Thickness: 9.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 47mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Movement Type: Manual ETA 2801
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
A Quick Word About Watch Maintenance
Regular watch maintenance is crucial to keep your watches in good working condition. Regular cleaning, servicing, and proper storage can help prolong the lifespan of your watches.
Collectors should also account for maintenance costs when purchasing a watch. A quality watch needs regular servicing to stay accurate and dependable.
Consider getting a watch box or case to store your growing watch collection and keep it in good condition.
Here's a great deal from Amazon at a good price:
Maintaining watch movement involves regular cleaning and lubrication to ensure precise timekeeping and avoid wear and tear.
Mechanical watch movements require periodic maintenance, including manual winding and cleaning.
Quartz watch movements require minimal maintenance, with battery replacement typically needed every one to two years.
Watch movement maintenance demands skilled craftsmanship and meticulous attention, aiming to preserve the movement’s accuracy and reliability.
Conclusion
Building a watch collection can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it requires patience, knowledge, and a relatively clear understanding of the world of watches.
By emphasizing quality, rarity, and condition, collectors can assemble a well-rounded collection that showcases their personal taste and style. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced collector, the world of watches offers something for everyone.
